Monday, March 31, 2008

Phi Phi Island

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On our fourth day in Krabi, we visited what is probably one of the world's most picturesque beaches, Maya Beach on Koh Phi Phi Leh. Getting there required a hideous two-hour ferry ride (they made us sit on the ferry for a full hour in the stifling heat before we set off) followed by a short long-tail boat ride.

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Isabella on the ferry

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On the long-tail boat

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Dave

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William contemplating the immense beauty of the scene

Maya Beach was the setting for the movie The Beach, filmed in 2000, and it still very much looks like it could be a movie set. It is absolutely amazing. We had to pay 200 baht per person just to be there, and we were only allowed to stay for two hours. It was so surreally beautiful that all of the people there, ourselves included, took pictures more or less continuously. Looking back at the pictures now, it's hard to believe we were really there.

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Liv

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Bella, Jody, Liv

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Jody

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Friday, March 28, 2008

Railay Beach

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On our third day in Krabi, we decided to visit Railay Beach, a small peninsula between Krabi and Ao Nang. Mainland access to this beach is cut off by huge limestone cliffs, which meant we had to take a long-tail boat to get there. The girls hate long-tail boats and did not enjoy the trip at all.

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Isabella and Daddy

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Olivia and Auntie Jody

Once we got there they had fun swimming and trying out the snorkels we bought from a beach vendor.

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We even took William for a little swim, and then afterwards he chilled out on the beach being admired by all the women selling massages and manicures.

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After awhile we ventured to a restaurant and had an overpriced and not-very-good meal . The service was terrible, and the whole place was overrun with the sort of tourists you see on MTV Spring Break. Not really our scene anymore, unfortunately. The beach was lovely, though. The scenery is pretty darn hard to beat.

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Wednesday, March 26, 2008

First leg of the trip -- Krabi

Our hotel in Ao Nang was great and very well located – 300 metres from the beach. There were tons and tons of little shops on the way to the water, and by the end of the week we had acquired new hats, bathing suits, and beach toys.

The beach was quite nice and not too busy.

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Liv and Bella on the beach

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Walking to the water

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Liv

The pool was wonderful and the kids loved it, so we spent a lot of time there. The restaurant made delicious fruit shakes that we enjoyed while lounging poolside. Happy hour was at four o’clock everyday and during that time fruit shakes were two-for-one. One day Jody and I ordered two banana shakes and two lemon shakes, and the waitress misunderstood how many we wanted and brought us eight shakes in total. We managed to drink them all anyway.

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At the pool

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On the alligator

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Isabella on the alligator

It seems like there are five types of businesses in Ao Nang: hotels, little shops selling knock-off designer clothes, tour-booking places, restaurants, and custom tailors. Are there really so many tourists looking to have suits custom made? There must have been six or seven of these places just along our little strip. One day they even tried to sell one to William. “How old he?” the guy asked as we were walking by. “Him? Three months,” I replied. “Three months? Oh, he very strong,” he answered, reaching for his tape measure, already mentally designing a miniature “Armani.”

We tried out a few different restaurants and had good food at all of them. We had a favourite place where the waitresses’ children ran around underfoot and entertained ours, and they let us use their stroller for William. They also brought us our steamed rice in cute little shapes:

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Dave and Jody at dinner (from Olivia’s point of view)

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Sunset at Ao Nang

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Dave's sister Jody arrived in Chiang Mai on March 10 and, after giving her a couple of days to get over her jet lag, we set off for Krabi. Having evidently not learned our lesson, we took the night train to Bangkok again. This time it was a bit better. The seats were huge, and we had booked Isabella her own, so we had plenty of room. Things were going pretty well until a boisterously loud gentleman came to sit in the seats next to ours. He spent most of the evening shouting, and then we had a reprieve of about six minutes of silence before he passed out in his bed and starting snoring louder than I would have thought humanly possible.

Following a harrowing taxi ride to the Bangkok airport, we caught an hour-long flight to Krabi and took a mini-bus to our hotel on Ao Nang beach. After getting unpacked and testing out the shower, we went for a little walk to check things out. The beach was very beautiful, and we didn't see even one jellyfish, much to the girls' relief.

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Scared of the dog

Ladies Who Lunch



The girls getting manicures

Bye-bye, Bangkok

After a few days in Hua Hin, we reluctantly headed back to Bangkok to catch the night train home to Chiang Mai. Following a slightly-less-grueling-but-still-fairly-horrible train ride, we arrived at the station in Bangkok and found out that the night trains to Chiang Mai were sold out for the next two days. Oh, but we could take the second-class "special express" (read: it's special how we manage to stop the train every 3.5 minutes) with reclining seats and a travel time of 14 hours. Thanks but NO THANKS.

We gratefully accepted the help of an enthusiastic tourism office worker who found us a hotel for the night. He assured us it was a nice hotel, and he didn't look deranged. He clearly was, though. The crap-hole he sent us to was most definitely the worst hotel I have had the misfortune of staying in. It looked like an aging concrete factory. We were required to pay a damage deposit when we signed in, which is never a good sign at a hotel. This was the type of hotel where if you want to take a warm shower, you have to first turn off the air conditioner for 10 minutes, because the hot water and the a/c run off the same power source.

We left our hotel to try and procure some food, but we couldn't find any restaurants within walking distance. The kids were all wrecks by that point, so Dave went down to the hotel restaurant, where he had to shout to be heard over an enthusiastic Thai singing karaoke very badly. He came back to the room about 10 minutes later, not entirely sure what he had ordered or whether the staff had understood that he wanted it brought to our room. Fortunately the food showed up not long after, and we chowed down. Not wanting to lose our damage deposit, we were especially careful not to wreck anything, especially the state-of-the-art AM/FM radio-cassette deck combo.

We could not wait to get out of Bangkok. In the morning we headed straight for the airport and caught the first flight back to Chiang Mai. See you later, Bangkok! Hopefully much later.

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Friday, March 21, 2008

How do you say "never again" in Thai?

After a couple of days in Bangkok, we were ready to escape to the beach. We didn't want to spend too long on the train and we were too cheap to fly, so we decided to head for Hua Hin, a beach resort town about 200 km south of Bangkok. The train was only supposed to take four hours, so we figured it wouldn't be too bad. Well, we arrived at the train station and discovered that second-class air-con was sold out. No problem, we thought, we can do second-class fan. We've been here for six weeks. We're like real Thais now! The heat doesn't bother us the way it bothers these silly tourists in their bucket hats and fanny packs. For good measure we decided not to buy Isabella her own seat since kids under four are free.

As soon as we got on the train, we began to realize what a spectacularly bad idea it was. We weren't in our seats for two minutes before we began to sweat through our clothes. The train quickly filled up, which meant that Dave had to sit with Isabella (and her thick fleece blankie) on his lap. The train travelled too slowly to get any air moving in the cars. At one point people meandering along the tracks were overtaking us. That was the point when I seriously contemplated vaulting out the window and continuing on foot.

The train stopped approximately every 500 metres. In the time it sat at each station, we could have gotten off, walked to the next station, and enjoyed an icy cold Fanta while waiting for it to arrive. It was excruciating. Olivia was bored out of her mind. In desperation I gave her my cell phone to play with, and, in a segment of time I like to consider the highlight of the trip, for 30 minutes straight she alerted me to the passing of each minute. "Oh, look, Mommy! It's 1:32! Hey, Mommy! Now it's 1:33! Mooooommmmmmy! It's 1:34 now!"

The trip ended up taking over six hours, and by the time we arrived, I was feeling homicidal. We got off the train, marched straight over to the ticket window, and bought second-class air-con tickets for the trip back. And you better believe this time we bought Isabella her own seat.

Hua Hin was pretty nice. It was the first Thai beach we visited, and it for sure beats the sloughy lake "beaches" we have at home. It isn't as nice as the beaches further south, however, and the beach by our hotel was unfortunately quite polluted with trash (and jellyfish). But the water was really warm and the scenery was beautiful. Our hotel had a great kids' pool that the girls LOVED.

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We spent two really nice afternoons at the beach, and it really whetted our appetite for Thai seaside resorts. As soon as we got home, we started researching other places to go, and we quickly decided to visit Krabi and Koh Samui. In order to make this future trip enjoyable rather than torturous, we booked flights, glorious flights! Yeah! I still think our trip to Hua Hin was worth it, if only for the valuable lessons learned. Sipping a drink while relaxing on the beach ain't too shabby, either, even if the kids are screaming about sand crabs the entire time.

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** P.S. It's "mâi eek láew"

Thai Disneyland

Our second day in Bangkok, we went to the Thai version of Disneyland, Dream World. To say the girls were a little bit excited is vastly understating it. First we enjoyed a good fleecing by a cab driver who waaaay overcharged us for the ride, but it was worth it to see the girls' faces when we arrived.

It is a very cute place, very Thai. Where else in the world can you ride an elephant and then a few metres further down the path buy some designer clothes at Elle Paris? The park is divided into sections like Fairytale Land and Adventure Land. We visited every "Land" and ended up staying six hours!

Here are the girls shortly after we arrived:
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Liv in Fairytale Land

I actually got a picture of the paparazzi! This guy and his wife nearly killed themselves getting their kid into this picture with Olivia when they saw her sitting there. Can you tell from Liv's expression how psyched she is?
Paparazzi strikes again

Here we are in the giant's house:
Olivia in the giant's house

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Feeding the fish:
Feeding the fish

Dave and Bella on the paddle boats:
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Cinderella's coach:
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Some interestingly worded information about the gingerbread house:


Best restroom sign ever:
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Me and my kiddos:
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Isabella:
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Dave on the craziest rollercoaster I've ever seen:
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One of the highlights for Isabella was getting to try cotton candy for the first time. As you can see here, she quite enjoyed herself:

 
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